Old Delhi Guide: Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid & Street Food

Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad) is one of Asia's most viscerally overwhelming urban experiences — a 17th-century walled city of narrow lanes, ancient mosques, crumbling havelis and the most exhilarating street food in India. Built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639, it remains the chaotic, magnificent heart of the Indian capital.

Chandni Chowk

Old Delhi's main boulevard — once one of Asia's grandest avenues, now a sensory overload of cycle rickshaws, spice merchants, electronics shops and street food vendors. The side lanes (galis) are the real treasure: Kinari Bazaar (wedding decorations), Dariba Kalan (silver jewellery), Khari Baoli (Asia's largest spice market — the aromas are extraordinary).

Jama Masjid

India's largest mosque — built by Shah Jahan 1644-1656, accommodating 25,000 worshippers. Climb the southern minaret (R100) for one of Delhi's great panoramic views. Open to non-Muslims outside prayer times; cover shoulders and legs, and remove shoes.

Street Food of Old Delhi

• Karim's (since 1913, near Jama Masjid) — nihari, mutton korma, seekh kebabs. A Delhi institution.
• Paranthe Wali Gali — an alley dedicated entirely to stuffed flatbreads
• Jalebi Wala (Dariba Corner) — hot fresh jalebis since 1884